All Culinary Artist Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.

Dominic Smith
Dominic Smith

Elara Thornton is a tech writer and digital strategist with a passion for emerging technologies and startup ecosystems.